When you think of high-end makeup a few names pop immediately into the brain. Tom Ford, Natasha Donona, and Pat McGrath. Pat McGrath is a British makeup artist who has often been labeled ‘the world’s most important makeup artist.’ She is renowned the world over for her impeccable skills with over a decade of experience in the runway makeup segment for all the major fashion houses, and she holds an Editor-at-large position with British Vogue magazine.
To say that her skills are coveted would be a woeful understatement. After decades in the business, she is at the top. With nothing in the way of formal training, she is the dream of every aspiring makeup artist. She has made it to the top with raw talent and skill. Contracted by Georgio Armani in 1999 to create a makeup line, the public has seen her work in one form or another. She went on to work with Covergirl, Max Factor and Dolce and Gabbana.
But, it wasn’t until recently that the world was bestowed with Pat McGrath as a brand. In 2015 Pat Mcgrath launched her first product, a gold eye glitter. The world has never been the same. The brand now has lipsticks, liquid lips, mascara, loose pigment, lip liners, lip balms, eyeliners, highlighters and of course eye shadows.
It is with the eye shadows that things take a turn into the land of the strange, and this becomes a curious case of Pat McGrath. The first release was the Mothership 1 Subliminal palette. This 10 pan shadow palette is available at Sephora for CAD 170. If that didn’t just make your wallet pucker, then nothing will. Featuring neutrals with a pop of blue this palette was immediately and widely coveted for its fantastic shimmer formula.
The shimmer formula applies beautifully with a dry brush, with a finger, with or without primer, over a wet base, over a dry base, this stuff is intense and precisely what McGrath is known for. Her packaging can easily be considered a work of art all on its own (although complaints abound from people who complain that they all look the same once you remove the palette from the beautiful artwork box. To date, there are 5 Mothership 10 pan palettes on the market. Those have been followed by 3 Mini Eye Shadow Palettes featuring 6 pans of the product; also available at Sephora for $70CAD. The mini palettes are just as artsy and gorgeous as their larger cousins.
Yet, they remain out of reach for most makeup junkies. Would you rather buy an 18 pan Huda Beauty palette for $85CAD or a 6 pan palette for $70? The choice is super easy. With that in mind, I put Pat Mcgrath products on my wishlist and out of my mind.
Fast forward to one month ago and the release of the Pat Mcgrath Eye Ecstasy Kit. Retailing at Sephora for $65CAD. The kit features a Fetish Eyes mini mascara, Angel Dust Crystalline Prismatic Pigment, and a 6 pan Eye Ecstasy Eyeshadow palette. This was the perfect chance to sample products on my wish list at a reasonably affordable price point.
I ordered it as fast as I could click, and waited by the mailbox for it to hurry the heck up and get here. The loose pigment in the package is a stunning rose gold color with black flecks in it. It is truly unlike anything I have ever seen. The size of the product is 1g/0.035oz, so don’t expect a lot of pigment, but do take a moment to be impressed with what you get. The Fetish Eyes mascara in Mini size is a significant selling point, the mini is .16oz/5ml of product. A full-size Fetish Eyes mascara contains 8ml/0.27oz of product for $36. You are getting almost a full-sized mascara for hardly any outlay of funds. Moving on to the six pan mini palettes, be prepared. This is not the standard 2gram pans that you see on the more massive cousins. This palette has 1g pans.
The palette comes wrapped in a stylish paper wrapper, and it literally fits in the palm of my hand. The larger palettes all contain a shiny black plastic outer shell, this one is basic black cardboard with the Pat McGrath logo embossed in gold on the front. The palette has a magnetic clasp and is genuinely perfect for travel. The inside cover features a considerable mirror and six stunning pigments.
After Glow: A champagne gold metallic
Paradiso: A terra cotta brown matte
Liquid Sun: Deep gold metallic
Dark Matter: Matte black
Le Sin: A rose gold metallic
Amnesia: A purple metallic
Here is where it becomes a strange or curious situation. The metallics are stunning, best applied with a finger, although they do apply ok with a wet brush. In the larger palettes, many of the metallic pigments are easily applied with a dry brush. I did have better success attempting application with a firmer brush. These shadows are definitely packed harder than a typical Anastasia Beverly Hills shadow palette. The shadows apply beautifully and they really cause you to buy into the hype surrounding the brand. On the downside, there was signifigant fallout all over the pan and my cheeks. The metallic shades lasted for about 5 hours. Without a primer they would just disappear. With a primer they would move into the crease and cause unsightly lines. I used the shadow over top of the black and brown colors with stunning although short lived effect. When I used the metallics on their own the effect faded away. For all the hype and the beauty, the lasting power isn’t what I was hoping for.
The shade Paradiso, is beautiful. It applies easily with a soft fluffy brush, although it does have fall out, this shade performed beautifully for hours before fading gracefully into nothingness at the 8 hour mark. This was the best shade of the bunch.
The shade Dark Matter, was simply a disappointment. It swatched beautifully on my hand, it was super pigmented, it failed to apply that way. Nothing I tried was able to make it not be patchy, and it migrated to other parts of my face in spite of an eye primer and setting spray. If you aren’t actually a member of a raccoon family this will give you the look. It looked like I had two black eyes when I left work the other day. Not good.
I don’t really know what to say. The shades are beautiful. They just don’t perform the way I would expect for that price point. Yes, I put those mattes on almost daily, even though I get a longer lasting result from my Huda Beauty New Nudes Palette.
I think if you want to test it out and see what the hype is about, this is a good way to test several products. The cost is worth it, it terms of the mascara value. Otherwise, I would recommend trying a larger sized palette from the collection and see if the results are more favorable.
As described on the Sephora website:
What it is: A potent mini eye palette, luxe loose pigment, and a hardcore dose of FetishEyes Mascara that delivers the ultimate beauty high.
Ingredient Callouts: Free of parabens, formaldehydes, formaldehyde-releasing agents, phthalates, mineral oil, retinyl palmitate, oxybenzone, coal tar, hydroquinone, triclosan, and triclocarban, and contains less than one percent of synthetic fragrances.
What Else You Need to Know: Titillate and tantalize with luxurious formulations designed to induce psychedelic pleasure. Provoke mind-altering creativity with a mini palette of six sensuous shadows that smoothly glide across the lids with a hallucinatory jolt of pleasure. Take your eyes even higher with the illicit Angel Dust Loose Pigment, which delivers a dramatic rush of prismatic iridescence. Finally, lavish your eyes in the provocative pleasure of FetishEyes Mascara, as you coat each individual lash in potently-pigmented shine. This climax-inducing collection is the ultimate beauty bender.
This Set Contains:
– 0.035 oz/ 1 g Angel Dust Loose Pigment
– 0.16 oz/ 5 mL FetishEyes Mascara
Eye Ecstasy Palette:
– 6 x Eyeshadows in After Glow (luminous platinum champagne), Paradiso (velvet sienna brown), Le Sin (deep bronzed rose metallic), Dark Matter (creamy blackened gray), Amnesia (metallic rose taupe), Liquid Sun (gleaming antique gold)
Eye Ecstasy Palette:
After Glow: Mica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Talc, Stearyl Dimethicone, Ptfe, Zinc Stearate, Octadecene, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Tin Oxide, Ethylene/Acrylic Acidcopolymer, Poloxamer 338, Silica. May Contain (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77499).
Paradiso: Talc, Boron Nitride, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Zinc Stearate, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Poloxamer 338, Silica. May Contain (+/-): Manganese Violet (Ci 77742), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499), Carmine (Ci 75470).
Le Sin: Mica, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Talc, Zinc Stearate, Dimethicone, Silica, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid. May Contain (+/-): Copper Powder (Ci 77400), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891).
Amnesia: Mica, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Zinc Stearate, Talc, Dimethicone, Sodium, Dehydroacetate, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Tin Oxide, Aluminum Dimyristate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate. May Contain (+/-): Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77499), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Copper Powder (Ci 77400), Ferric Ferrocyanide (Ci 77510), Manganese Violet (Ci 77742), Carmine (Ci 75470).
Liquid Sun: Mica, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Silica, Ptfe, Zinc Stearate, Talc, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Tin Oxide, Boron Nitride, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Poloxamer 338. May Contain (+/-): Bronze Powder (Ci 77400), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891).
Dark Matter: Mica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Stearyl Dimethicone, Glyceryl Behenate, Zinc Stearate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Octadecene, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Talc. May Contain (+/-): Iron Oxides (Ci 77499), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891).
Water, Synthetic Beeswax, Paraffin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Vp/ Hexadecene Copolymer, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Aminomethyl Propanediol, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cellulose, Pvp, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Dextran, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Iron Oxides (Ci 77499), Ultramarines (Ci 77007), Black 2 (Ci 77266) (Nano).
Angel Dust Loose Pigment:
Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Dimethicone, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Silica, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tin Oxide, Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491).
You may wish to give this product a pass if:
- You are allergic to Talc
- You are avoiding Dimethicone
- You are sensitive to Ultramarines
- You want a Vegan product
- You are on a budget
Have you tried the full sized Pat McGrath palette’s? If so let me know how you faired in the comments below, or chime in on Twitter, Facebook or Instagram @everydaybeaut11. Find us on Flipboard at Beauty to the Test magazine. Don’t forget to click the subscribe button so that you are notified everytime we publish and please share us with your friends.